Day 12: Gubbio to Eremo San Pietro in Vignelo

 September 12, 2022

10.3 miles

1150 feet of gain

We let ourselves out the back door of the vacant hotel and started on our way. Quickly, we met up with two Italian men, Alberto, who made the reservation for our lodging tonight and his friend, Mikela, both from northern Italy. Then we came upon Pia and another woman from Germany, Pieta. It was one of the most beautiful days of hiking, maybe because it felt so short compared to the past two days of 18 miles, and I could relax and enjoy it.

We arrived at our lodging, a convent called Eremo San Pietro in Vigneto, in the middle of the countryside.

The only people here were our pilgrim friends and another Italian couple (her name is Roberta, Birds!), so we all went into the sleeping room and chose a bunk. Showered, laundry and then suddenly a man, Luigi, drove up with food for lunch: two different pastas, rice, eggs, olives, cheese, ham, cake, wine and beer. Like manna from heaven. So we sat for a few hours eating and talking. A couple from Finland came in just to see the place and Luigi fed them lunch before they went on their way. Then three women from Austria came and they were staying here.

Luigi told us the convent was built around 1200 and has  always been used to shelter pilgrims because the gravel trail we had been walking on was the main road from Assisi to Gubbio. It’s a beautiful building with spectacular views.

There are no nuns here. It’s run totally by volunteers, like Luigi. He is staying here for about a month and then someone else will take over. The place was spotless when we arrived. And it is strictly donativo, meaning we give a donation of our choosing for a bed, the lunch, dinner and breakfast.

We spent a relaxing afternoon walking around the grounds and even taking a nap. Then around 6:00, Luigi sprang into action and grabbed some of us to help him prepare dinner in the kitchen.

When dinner was ready, we all went into the chapel, where Luigi said a prayer and then went around to each of us and washed our feet. Luckily we had all just showered.

And then the dinner we had all helped to prepare was served, minestrone soup with homemade croutons, bruschetta with truffles and mozzarella cream,  salami and cheese, pastries for dessert and lots of wine. This has been such a unique experience. It will be hard to move on tomorrow.